Marylebone Mountaineering Club
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Peak Practice
By Nick Kemp

The Peak district meet was blessed with beautiful warm weather and an exceptionally healthy turnout of members. The published capacity of the meet was greatly swelled by campers, people who had arranged other accommodation or journeymen who lived close enough to come for a day.

Nick and Kate arrived first and finally managed to locate the bunkhouse (after four passes up and down the Baslow-Chesterfield road, a depressingly common experience). Then after further trials in gaining entry to the premises it appeared that the standard of accommodation was hardly a prize worth the effort spent in gaining it. This consisted of a small showerless cottage with two bedrooms each with one enormous bed. There was a barn annex that was, if anything, worse. Packets of rat poison in the kitchen cupboard hinted at the regular residents. All this was situated in a dank and unlovely glade.

Making the best of a bad job Nick and Kate grabbed the best sleeping spots available and departed for the Robin Hood pub that was mercifully close and surely the bunkhouse's only real virtue. They were gradually joined at the pub by various MMC itinerants including Chris Bjork who had contrived to forget his sleeping bag. Luckily he managed to persuade the publican to lend him a bag, a courtesy extended to AG for the Saturday night who also arrived bagless.

On Saturday seven cyclists took off for the hills. This group consisted of Andy, Nick, Kate, John, James, Chris and Tom. Nick had contrived to forget his cycling shorts and so was resplendently decked out in a pair of silver cycling shoes and a pair of perforated lycra climbing pants. A mode that could be politely described as techno-grunge. Amazingly for such a large group, over 50 kM there were no mechanical breakages or punctures, possibly because significant parts of the route were on the road. Kate seemed to suffer from more than her fair share of falls that she attributed to her wobbly seat. Tom probably had the most spectacular spill but fortunately his fall was broken by landing on his head. A stop was made at the Grindleford café where Tom displayed a worryingly detailed knowledge of the train timetable and food and drink were ordered with trepidation due to the number of warning notices emblazoned around the place. (Do not Harass the Kitchen Staff, No Dogs, No Kids, No Mobile Phones, No Walking on the Cracks in the Pavement etc.) Shortly after this the group split up with Kate and John taking the easy road back to Baslow and the remainder going along the track at the top of Curbar. Everyone felt suitably exercised after this and hence plans for nipping out to climb a couple of routes were forgotten and an excursion made to Outside in Hathersage to drool over gear.

Mark W and Faff headed for the Stanage popular end which not surprisingly was quite popular given the weather. Here they climbed a number of routes in the VS/HVS range. These included Tinkers crack VS 4b by Faff and Lancashire Wall HVS 5a by Mark. A creditable seven routes were racked up, pipped by Mark K and Dither who reeled in nine. Mark K and Dither were gearing up David realised that he could not find his harness. "I am sure I packed it" says David with the contents of his capacious rucksack strewn on the ground. "David, you're wearing it". Even nearby climbers broke out in laughter - you had to be there. Undaunted David, with uncharacteristic speed led 5 routes, including Paucity HVS 5b. Mark, with equally characteristic enthusiasm tried to remove various rusted in situ wires not realising they were in situ whilst David shivered in a howling gale on the top. A brilliant day's climbing.

The Ashbourne party (Jane Buxton, Warren Boshall, Tara Oregano, Shane Topley, Claudia Maschi and Robin Mitten) having enjoyed their superior accommodation were also at Stanage climbing in the HS range.

Chris Bjork, James Gilbert and Matt Fennelow spent both days at Stanage where they racked up a good set of classic ticks including Inverted V Vs 4b, Queersville HVS 5a, Mississippi Buttress Vs 4c, Manchester Buttress Direct Vs 4c, Leaning Buttress HVS 5b and Hargreaves Original Route Vs 4c. A special mention should be made about Matt's lunch which was hauled in by a dedicated team of Sherpas and included a focacia loaf the size of a bouldering mat (handy for the bold start on Queersville).

The walkers, Tara, Zoe and Catherine set off for a leisurely stroll from Rowsley, heading into the fields and woods. They had some interesting interactions with various amphibians including a pair of frogs that Zoe politely described as 'Piggy Backing'. Birds do it, Bees to it, Even educated fleas do it … (enough Perry Como thanks ed.) They then came across some dead foxes slung over a wall (pour decourager les autres) and felt justified in stopping for some Bakewell tart and gear shopping for Catherine's next adventure.

Gradually the various parties converged upon the Robin Hood pub for the Saturday night where Andy displayed more evidence of his misspent youth by being too good at pool.

Kate was at her most officious on Sunday morning as she realised there was a captive group of new members and a quorate committee and so was collecting subscriptions with the fervour and persistence of a Jehovah's witness on the eve of judgement day.

Nick and James Counsell went to the plantation section of Stanage for James's first sniff of trad climbing. Nick led most of the routes including a particularly desperate ascent of Goliath's Groove HVS 5a (sic). James ruefully commented on the fresh blood stains after Nick's battered ascent. James kicked off his leading career with Helfendsteins Struggle that require a desperately hard exit move through a hole. No pushover for a first lead.

Mark K and Kate were also in the area where Kate led Holly Bush Gully Left S and Pegasus Wall VS 4c. Mark led Wall End Flake Crack VS 4c and Pegasus Rib E1 5a. Andy and Alix were also spotted in the area on Wall End Flake Crack VS 5a.

The walkers were joined by Vanessa on an enjoyable ramble from the hut up to Curbar and Froggat edge. This time they were accompanied by long horned highland cows. Various encounters with climbers were made along the way including a meeting with Barry, Russell and Virginia who had made it no further than the first bouldering opportunity.

John, Rob and Tom were back on their bikes on Sunday along the disused Bakewell railway line (Tom and his trains again) before a date with the pub TV to watch the Rugby.

The Ashbourne party went to Froggat for some more classic severes and Jane got into trad leading for the first time.

Overall it was an excellent meet organised by the non-attending Simon Atkins. A great deal of climbing, walking, cycling and drinking was done in the best traditions of the club and the excellent weather and ambience more than made up for the spartan accommodation.

NK