If Your Dreaming Of Lying on a Waterbed...

The committed hardcore ignoring both commonsense and the weather forecasts headed for the meet. The handful braved the trip driving through 'berloody awful wind and rain' arriving in the small hours in the lovely Cumbrian valley of Langdale. This is a picturesque little valley to the west of Ambleside sporting more than a few tourists (and the odd tent thief, thankfully none of ours) on bank holiday weekends. The campsite one of the better National Trust examples out there, however some grumbled about paying for car parking and not being able to park!

Virginia, Dave and Eleanor opting to pitch their tents away from the river due to the flood potential. Others found the right field making the decision between pitching near the stream or the road.

Saturday 3 May

Deciding the closest crag to the campsite was best bet to get some climbing in the predicted 'good weather' window the climbers set off to Raven Crag.

Simon (with David seconding) jumped onto Gamekeeper (E1 5b) at Raven Crag. Simon began the lead and promptly got pumped trying to put in early pieces of gear. After struggling on Gamekeeper for a while, and giving it one last go on a tricky move about 15 feet off the ground Simon eventually gave up and fell onto a No.1 wire, ripping out a No.2 on the way down. Laughable claims about crucial holds being missing on the lower section of upping the climb to E2 5c (I'd climb a few more E1s before making such bold claims!)

Continuing with the theme of backing off they tried Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c). However, with the weather getting windier, drizzle beginning Simon decided valour and discretion being better task master and retreated from the climb, scrambled up to the top of the pitch and abseiled down to retrieve the placements. And finally when the abseil rope was pulled through it jammed…. David was still waiting to get his rock boots on.

Unfortunately a lot of climbers had decided Raven crag was the place to be. Jiri and Claudia attempted to climb Original Route (s), alongside Robin and Warren. The route with others non-MMC climbers turned out into an elbow match taking belays were possible and climbing whatever routes looked available without other climbers in the way, just a case of following the polished holds. AG and Chuck had more success with Bilburry Buttress(?). And then came the fun as all looked for a decent route.

I'm still none the wiser as to where the decent route is. AG found the fastest route, following a nearby fence got down first. Warren, Chuck and Robin followed someone who claimed it wasn't too difficult to get down the last time he climbed here (what in 1923?). After a lot of faffing and walking further away from the crag! A small tree came to the rescue after a short abseil three more got down. Jiri and Claudia set the standard having managed to get down find away down which with a mile and a half walk back up the valley on the road! Descent route started to out last the three pitch ascent route.

Matt resolutely sticking to his guns of not bringing his climbing gear went walking with Sarah G.

Sat morning (sorry early afternoon), Virginia and Eleanor set off up the valley to tackle a couple of the peaks & possibly Crinkly Crags. (Dave had met up with Mark and spent a few hours admiring each others mountain bikes before setting off on a ride - sorry guys it was the girls that wrote that!). Glorious sunshine and strided along in T-Shirts. Up the steep path to Angle Tarn Virginia started to be bothered by blisters on her feet. Then came the 'are these mine or Dave's boots' queries. At Angle Tarn Virginia decided very reluctantly to head back due to her blisters now being the size of golf balls. Eleanor not having nearly enough of the mountains carried on up to the fells that were hidden in the mist, then back down the Band as time was running out. Out of the mist and into the rain.

Then came some rain, followed by some more rain curtailing any further outdoor activity. Forages where made to the nearby gear shops, a familiar trend? On Saturday night in the Old Dungeon Gill pub mutterings from Mark K about being flooded out of the campsite the last two times. Was this to be a third?

Sunday 4 May

For some the day started early. The rain had continued all night! The campsite lying on an area of terminal moraine formed by a retreating glacier, the water still running just under the surface (most of the time). You don't need to be a geographer to figure out what happens next. If you're dreaming you're lying on a waterbed you were! Warren's twin sleeping bag/boat system capsized about four in the morning, Jiri camping slightly further downstream lasted till morning light before manual bailing was required.

Eleanor woke up feeling a bit sea sick as the groundsheet of her tent was floating away underneath her. Frantic packing of rucksack ensued and then waking David and Virginia up and sleeping for the rest of the night in their car. She must have picked the only flooded spot in that field as David, Virginia and Mark were fine and they camped right next to her. Thank goodness for the campsite drying room, they must be used to this up here?

The rain abated at about eight am, Jiri and Warren deciding to make for the M6 exit as all their kit was beyond the recovery powers even of the campsite drying room. The busy little valley saw a large exodus of the masses leaving the pubs quieter and much more civilised as a result. Funnily to note that those who camped nearer the stream stayed drier and those pitching near the road. Those remaining stayed damp and soggy for the rest of the weekend.

Warren and Jiri stopped off in the Peaks having found the rain stopped about five miles south of the junction 28. The 'only' highlight was the VS 4c that Jiri soloed in his trainers, his damp gear and wet climbing boots left in the boot of David's car.

Chuck joined David and Simon, who had put the disaster of the day before behind them, to climb the four pitch Middlefell Buttress (Diff) in the rain. Well it is only just above walking isn't it? Simon led the first two pitches and Chuck led the last two. Half way up the 1st pitch Simon got stuck in a particularly slimy chimney. His seconds called up "perhaps you've climbed Castration Crack (VS) by mistake". Undeterred Simon took off his hiking boots and threw them at his seconds, put on his rock boots and finished the pitch. His seconds thoughts about this aren't recorded. The climbing went smoothly and the rain held off, with the rock actually beginning to dry towards the end of the route.

After yesterday yet another attempt to find the descent path described in the guidebook, they declined the option of down-climbing a waterfall they chose to scramble up a gully to the top instead. They achieve the longest walk-off of the weekend coming in at over 2 hours.

For most climbing looked unlikely, they dried off a little and let Matt lead a walk, with Eleanor, Claudia, Sarah, Robin, AG followed. Lunch break was taken in a nearby quarry, the damp decent path lead us to think we were alone. A short scramble lead to a nice ledge on which to take lunch. Then we were rudely interrupted by a loud scream, looking up we found a body hurling itself into space over the quarry, only to traverse the gap on a small cable death slide; this continued every five minutes for the rest of the lunch stop. The peace was further disturbed by divers bubbling up from the watery depths and a large party of ramblers hacking over the horizon. The afternoon's highlight was the small pub (and log fire). Whilst resting our limbs Virginia, Dave and Mark appear on they're mountain bike ride, well it is the day of rest? AG's transition to bitter drinking Northerner continuing a pace, has he read too much Joe Brown/Tom Patey?

Monday 5 May

With the rain still hammering down from the previous night and none the wiser for the previous day's events Simon, David and Chuck showing determination of true believers they revisited Raven Crag for some more climbing in bad weather. Other climbers were heard muttering 'I remember those days' on finding out the Determined Three were back out on the crag, before settling to do something more sedate. This time the DT headed over to East Raven Crag, for shorter pitches and a simple walk-off! The rock was wet and the weather alternating between clear skies and heavy rain. Nevertheless Simon began by leading Mamba (S). David wisely refrained from climbing, leaving Chuck to second the route.

A break was taken to allow everyone to warm up after handling the freezing and wet rock and regain feeling in the toes. Simon led Jingo (MVS 4b), a bold undertaking given the lack of friction on the soaking rock and again Chuck seconded. Simon claimed at times it felt like climbing a waterfall! After this had been completed it was time to head back down, with all members of the DT party agreeing that enough had been done for the weekend!

AG, Claudia, Eleanor and Robin ambled round the waterfalls of Ambleside. Matt and Sarah sniffing out a lovely eatery again with yet another log fire (how does Matt do it?). Dave showing admirable determination to ran up to the top of crinkle crags, taking an hour and a half to cover the distance Virginia and Eleanor had taken six earlier in the weekend, reporting back from the top tales of not finding rain! He'd found white rain (snow and hail). Virginia and Mark having made bold claims of going climbing, were seen later sporting large new shopping bags, must have been a really long decent, huh?

The sun was seen by all on the M6 at Preston North junction 28, where it had been all weekend! So yes Claudia, that's why they call it the Lakes…

RM