Marylebone Mountaineering Club
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Swanage Meet Report
by Neville Shane

Those who decided to "work from home" on Friday, and thus arrived in Swanage early, managed to avoid the delights of pitching their tents in the rain. The constant wind and rain overnight, gave way, however, to glorious sunshine and cautious optimism early on Saturday morning. After much debate and faffing, the group split into several factions.

Dave, Freda

Kate and Clare set of on an endurance march, whilst trying to keep up with Jane's "gentle stroll" along the coastal path. The early, promising weather, was soon blown away, and the girls took a battering (from the wind) from all sides. Despite their eagerness to carry on trekking, they were forced to take shelter in a public house in Kingston. They hid in the corner where they surreptitiously scoffed their packed lunches, whilst passing critique on the outfits of a local wedding party. Marching on for another 45 minutes, narrowly escaping the attentions of some particularly viscous looking cows, they made it safely to Corfe, where, in the sole interests of the MMC and its cake and café database, the stopped again. All MMC members should note that the Corfe coffee shop scored full marks on the cake front both portion (enormous) and taste, and did proper coffees: latte, cappuccino and the likes. Stomachs were then dragged back to Swanage and the Kings Arms, after a total of 6 hours walking.

Chuck and Five Bikes Rob went to Guillemot Ledge at Swanage. They climbed Tensor II (two fine pitches of VS 5a ) with an attention holding traverse for the second! A little bit of moisture in the air failed to put the pair off another route. But it was decided to stick to VS due to a number of factors (multi-pitch climbing, with more rain threatening, on a ab-in sea cliff crag to themselves - more sensible climbers would have gone to pub then and there!) The next climb proved a bit wet for Rob with a big wave managing to swamp Rob and his belay ledge, while Chuck was absorbed in a damp crack. And to top it off, it started raining in earnest in time for Rob to second the second pitch for Chuck. The climb, Batt Crack, proved fantastic climbing. And surprise, surprise, another quality traverse to keep Rob on his toes! The pair then decided that rain had won and beer was need to stave of dehydration and went off to find the pub.

Simon MC, Jon, Stefan and Neville headed off to Subluminal. After getting drenched by a couple of rogue waves and deciding climbing in wind, rain and sea spray on wet rock wasn't much fun, Neville and Stefan beat a hasty retreat up High Rd (Diff). Jon and Simon persevered on Balcony (HS). Following the advice of fellow retreating climbers, they then headed off to the upper tier of Hedbury Quarry , where the waves could not follow. Despite rock boots coated with mud, the following bolted routes were knocked off: Tethered by Gravity (4+), Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus (5) , Moves for the Masses (6a+ *), Jumping the Gun (6b **). Those trying to find the "T-rex Sex" climb in future should be aware that the actual route may vary from your Rockfax toppo after Stefan decided to re-position a two foot wide chunk of rock from the face to the ground.

Neville, JumpingTheGun

Robin, AG, Matt and Louise placed their hopes on the possibility of miraculous local weather patterns at Portland. First stop was the café and then on to The Cuttings, where they met up with Kate and Ricardo, who had spent the night somewhere in Southampton. Matt and Louise aimed for a gentle start on a 5+ **. After struggling their way up a finger crack populated with silverfish, they decided to lower their expectations on a 4+ which was also tough for the grade. Rain drove our Portlanders back to the café again before returning to the Cuttings for a few more routes in the (finally) beautiful evening.

Virginia and Dave Phillips arrived mid afternoon (via, what seems to have been an obligatory café stop) to go to Subluminal. Once there, they found they were only able to look at the routes and watch the waves crashing in. Instead they went to Corf Castle where Dave went for a run (KIMM training) and Virginia went shopping.

Sunday turned out to be a much nicer day, with the local café trade, therefore, suffering heavily. Dave and Virginia returned to Subluminal with Nick (who had arrived the previous evening with Rocket) and Clare. Between them they knocked off High Street (Diff), Bypass (S), Freda (VS 5a), Balcony (HS), Spread Eagle (VS 5a), Face Away (VS 4c) and Back Street (VS 4c).

Rocket on Aventura

Neville wasn't dissuaded from climbing with Rocket at Boulder Ruckle, despite threats from certain members of the club of epics, traumas and the promise of nightmares for nights to come. They knocking off Aventura (HVS 4c,4c) without incident, before abbing down to attempt Prudence (HVS 4c,5b). Prudence, however, was elsewhere, with the cliff facing them, for some reason, not being covered by the Rockfax guide. They managed to escape, with relative ease, up a mystery route, which, after consulting the Climbers Club guide, was decided to probably be Insectitude (HS). They then found Prudence and finished off the weekend by top roping it.

Simon and Jon went back to Hedbury quarry to search for Si's missing guidebook - which actually turned out to be in his coat pocket. They re-climbed Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus after it's restyling by Stefan and found some new routes that weren't in the guidebook - grades 2-6 according to some local. They then went for a long walk looking for Judy (S *) but weren't convinced that the route that was in about the right place was Judy or severe. They managed to bag a mod on the way down instead, before heading back along the coast to Dancing Ledge and climbing a Date With A Frog (6a*).

Lou, Matt, Robin, AG, Kate and Rick headed back to Portland again (obviously not Swanage fans), this time to Cheynes Cliff. Matt and Lou polished off a bunch of 5's, or thereabouts. AG and Robin climbed some 5+/6a's, with AG then leading up to 6b and attempting a 6c.

Chuck and Wendy (having completed her CV/job applications which kept her grounded on Saturday) also headed to Portland, climbing at Blacknor South. Chuck decided to lead in big boots and silly hat, managing a 3, a 4 and two 5's before resorting to rock boots for a 6a+ and a 6a. They met Stefan and Rob there, who led a couple of routes before finishing off at Fallen Slab.

Jane and Kate headed off to Swanage to Bike About. Unfortunately the owners had inconsiderately decided to close for the weekend so they resorted to another coastal jaunt at Ludlowe Cove, though this time a brief 2hrs and many more tourists.

NS