Marylebone Mountaineering Club
Library and Information > Meet Reports
Cornwall
A small but select group gathered in Cornwall for the Easter weekend. The meet organiser dropped out with excuses about family commitments, which coincided with a worsening in the weather forecast a couple of days before the meet.

In the event, it stayed dry for the whole weekend, if somewhat cold in the campsite, which suffered from the usual Cornish micro-climate. Still, this was more than made up for when arriving at the warm and sheltered crags, where it was possible to climb in shorts and t-shirt.

On Friday, Rick and Tom teamed up to climb Red Wall (HS), and then led The Mitre (VS 4c). The latter was made more enteraining by some spectacularly slimy rock on pitch 1 (which needed some nifty technical manouvres to avoid it), and then a major faff on pitch 2 - caused initially by a route finding faff. The pace wasn't improved when Rick decided to let through another leader who was waiting to cross the route on another line, hoping that they'd be quick - they weren't. Great route though. Meanwhile, Mark W and Dave Faff headed for Bosigran, which was surprisingly quiet for a bank holiday. Here they climbed Doorpost HS ***, on which Mark managed to drop his camera 90 feet from the first belay. Although dented, it still worked (see picture of Faff). Dave, whose head wasn't quite in gear, spent some hours leading Ledge Climb Vdiff **.

On Saturday, Rick and Tom climbed Right Angle (HS***). Tom had the pleasure of seconding the downclimb on pitch 2 (which seemed by far the hardest bit of it), and was psyched up for leading the big pitch up the corner. Unfortunately it started raining, so he deferred to Rick's greater slime-handling experience. They then went to the nearby and very obscure Pedn Kei to bag another "quick" route. Getting to it involved a terror shuffle down vertical grass (good training for Lundy) and a boulder hop past the advancing tide. Most of the routes were wet and slimy, and the retreat was now cut off, so Rick appropriately led When Hope has Gone (HVS 5a) as the only viable way out.

Eileen, Helen and Jude went for a walk along the coast from St Ives to Zennor, while Dave and Mark watched (or didn't) the children in the campsite. Only misplacing one of them (Jessica) before lunch. Luckily one of the campsite staff found and returned her.

Sunday - Jude, Helen and Eileen organised an Easter egg hunt in the campsite for the children. The group then had to wait 3 hours at the campsite for Faff to return form a '1 hour' mountain bike ride, before heading for the beach.

MarkW and Rick went to Pordenack Point near Land's End. Here they climbed three routers, including Nothing Much (HVS 5a), led by Rick. Ropework was somewhat more challenging since the pair had a single 9mm between them. (MW had forgotten his). By far the hardest part of the day was the trouser shredding chimney descent to the base of the crag. Good routes, but some friable and sharp rock in places. Tom paired up with Clare Murphy and Guy (who were staying nearby). They went to Bosigran, where they climbed Autumn Flakes (HS**) and Big Top (Vdiff). As expected on a meet with Rick and Faff, there was much faffing and dithering (despite the absence of Dither).

Monday saw only general faffing at the campsite and beach before everyone headed home.