|
|
Marylebone Mountaineering Club
Library and Information > Meet Reports |
|
This was the last camping meet of the year but that didn't deter a big big group of people from heading down to Toms Field. The weather proved to be very pleasant and a lot of climbing got done. Being a relatively short distance from London Simon's car decided on a zero pit stop strategy, on arriving at Swanage the weary passengers opted to head for the pub and food before pitching tents. After some pub sandwiches and a couple of drinks they made their way to the camp site to find the allocated MMC camping area, this turned out to be a small field that an estate agent might describe as cozy, perhaps Tom knew that the MMC had a reputation for pitching their tents on top of each other. After the usual gassing and discussing of plans for the next day the party petered out and everyone went to bed. Saturday The morning produced more discussion of crags and partners and some musing about forgotten kit, it appears that both AG and Chuck had forgotten to pack climbing shoes. This didn't deter chuck however as he bravely set off with Lucasz to go climb at the ruckle, planning on doing a multi pitch HVS. Shoes were exchanged using some creative rope work but as we saw both of them again that evening we can only assume that it worked. The climb however wasn't without drama the second pitch saw Lucasz got some air time in as he fell on to a large hex, now a permanent fixture on the route as neither of them could retrieve it. This was their only route for the day, the author assumes that the shoe swapping was time consuming rather than just laziness. The bulk of the group went bolt clipping at Hedbury Quarry, it should be known that Simon did plan on doing trad but had his arm twisted by AG. Hedbury is one of the closest climbing areas to the camp site and reached via a pleasant walk along the coast, there was however a muddy section of the path that required crossing with care unfortunately the normally sure footed AG came a cropper and wound up covered head to toe in mud, really not a good meet for the organiser.
Once the crag was located the group (Nigel Parsons, Paul Jerem, Catherine O' C, Petra, Simon M-C, AG, Stuart Arundel, Valerie, Karma and Antonio) climbed in various styles, Tethered by Gravity 4+, Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus 5+ (a route name film buffs will recognise as being a quote from Predator), Ammonitemare 6a+, Glue Cruz Clan 6c, Produced by Fred Quinby 6b, Mindless Optimism 6b+, New Age New Style 5+, Very Ordinary Route 1 (yes you did read that correctly this route was a one, a blocky groove with bolts), Another contribution 2, Moral Flexibility 5 and Sea View 3. As you can see a lot of mileage was covered but with scant regard for quality. AG and Simon being the pace makers and getting most routes in, at lunch Catherine O'C enquired as to what the diet of champions was as the energy from here porridge oats was beginning to wear off, the pair were heard to say no comment as they tucked in to a mars bar and packet of crisps.
Lee, Morgan, Wendy and Dawn are believed to have gone on a coastal walk possibly visiting Corfe Castle and a few tea shops. The rest did what should be done at Swanage and found some sea cliff trad to test their skills and nerve on.
In the evening the hardy decided to cook in the campsite with the vast majority opting for the easy option of the pub, this was only a 5 minute walk from the camp site but on arrival the group were told there was a 1 hour wait for food orders. This seemed to pass quite quickly with the help of a few beers plus nuts and crisps from behind the bar, and the ravenous group were soon tucking in. Sunday The weather on Sunday didn't look very inspiring and Dawn, Wendy, Lucasz and Chuck decided that they would rather clip bolts than risk having to prussic out of the ruckle in the rain. It is well known amongst climbers that Portland often has a weather system of its own and that is can be sunny on the island when it is raining on the mainland so the sport climbing group set off for Blacknor South. On arriving at the Sacred Angel Area of Blacknor the group found that on this occasion at lest the weather on Portland was at least as bad as the mainland with a Sea Mist/drizzle hanging in the air but the rock seemed dry enough to climb on. Between them the group did Hot Pants Explosion 6b+, Well Done Poppet 4+, Do Ixtian 5, Imperfect 3, Lifeline 6a+ and It's My life 5. As the day progressed the rain worsened leaving Catherine O'C stuck part way up a route and in need of some reassurance, chuck leapt to the rescue climbing up and taking her down. Whilst this was happening Neville and Nick appeared from round the corner having come down from London for the day and being advised that Portland was where to go for the good weather, I think they will be sticking to the met office for weather reports in the future. The rest of the group packed up as quickly as possible ready to flee to the pub in Easton to avoid the rain, where tales of the previous day were told and Nick concluded that the drive down was worth it despite the weather as he and Neville had managed some quality ticks including Pregnant Pause 6a. Those that chose to stay in Swanage were rewarded for their optimism as it brightened up there and Rob, Nancy, Janet and Simon got some more trad in.
More pictures available here |