Colorado Ice 2002

This winter ice conditions were better than last year with thick water ice reported in Europe and N. America. However although spoilt for choice there was never any real doubt Colorado was the favoured option.

This year the 'ice boyz' Mark K, Steve M and Dave P were joined by Dave's wife, the 'ice maiden', Virginia. It was suggested that after several overtly testosterone charged ice trips in it might be nice to introduce a bit of a balance! Virginia, or 'Shiver' to her mates, eager to assert herself in the male dominated terrain, was quick to learn what was expected of her, and responded particularly well to the raw edged behaviour of ice men and cowboys! Indeed it was Shiver who competed with Mark in the flatulence competition on the drive from Denver to our motel in Grand Junction on the first night.

The following day, having pigged out totally on an all American breakfast, consisting of eggs, burgers, waffles, maple syrup, oats, sour bread, jam, ice cream and all the rest, the team made there way to the shopping mall to stock up on the week's supply of 'herbe' tea, condensed milk, budweiser, bagels, tortilla chips, salsa and other American 'niceties'. Then it was down the road to Ouray; home to cowboys, cowgirls, icemen and 'chicks with picks'.

This year conditions in the Uncompahgre gorge (for full description see last year's meet report) were good, whilst the 'backcountry' (local term for less accessible multi pitch mountain route areas) was subject to avalanche hazard; this however didn't deter the MMC… Not surprisingly Dave was reluctant that Shiver should climb with the likes of cowboys Steve and Mark, and so the climbing pairs were established at the start of the week. After two days of steep ice 'routing' in the gorge Mark took the opportunity to climb with Naomi, a keen local ice chick, who Shiver had managed to 'pull' on the first night much to the humiliation of the ice boyz. Dave and Shiver, meanwhile were content to continue climbing as a pair in spite of periodic domestic disagreements, whilst Steve set off to solo Horsetail Falls, a classic back country route recommended by Mark and Dave from the year before.

That night, joined by Naomi, much revelry was had in the apartment with a mix of beer, nachos, paella, wine and bourbon. And just as the ice team were starting to feel reassured that not all Americans are like George Bush, Naomi pulled a hand gun, explaining that this was something she always carried since being victim of a stalker back home in Colorado Springs. It's no surprise that the next day, hangovers aside, Mark declined the offer to pair up with Naomi and the four Brits took off for the day to relax in café's, restaraunts and the hot springs.

The next day Dave's elbow was giving him grief, a consequence of an unfortunate training injury back in the UK. Shiver, keen to consolidate her highly successful virgin ice ventures, persuaded Dave to climb regardless and the intrepid pair set off up a pair of Scottish looking gullies in the gorge, each climbing with a single axe!

Meanwhile the dynamic duo Steve and Mark almost hit disaster when at the very start of the day Steve fell through the ice into a deep pool in the river below. A frantic flurry followed before Mark assisted him back onto 'terra firma'. Soaked to the bone with freezing water any sensible person would have gone home, showered and put on a warm and dry set of clothes. But not Rocketman, he concluded that the best way to get warm and dry again was to have a crack at an evil looking hanging icicle called ' Culminator'. Despite making the crux move of stepping onto the free standing pillar (which didn't touch at the base), and moving up to place an ice screw, it appeared the buttons on Rocket's blouse were not done up and he was forced to make a cowardly retreat leaving the screw in position! Later in the day both the dynamic pair top roped the route and concluded that grade 6 ice is a hugely psychological affair. 'Culminator' didn't present significant technical difficulties over a 5+. It was just plain ' bloody scary'!

The next day Dave's elbow was no better and Shiver, despite battling nobly with fatigue caused by a combination of jet lag and altitude (Ouray lies at about 3000m above sea level), was happy to accompany 'hubby' on a quiet domestic, yet expensive day shopping and chilling in Telluride. Meanwhile the insatiable appetite for steep ice of the other crazed pair took them back to Bridalveil Falls, scene of notoriety from last year (see 2002 meet report). This year climbing the left side they found themselves in the main line of drainage and despite battling on through a showery stream of freezing water to complete the second pitch half way up the 400 foot route they finally agreed discretion was the better part of valour and 'abbed' off.

The next day Dave and Shiver returned to the gorge to perfect the art of climbing with a single axe and to develop the art of climbing ice with hands and no axes. Says Dave, it works wonders for your balance!

Steve and Mark ventured out of the gorge for the second day running to climb in the 'Skylight' region. An area hosting some of the hardest and most notorious ice and mixed climbs in Colorado. Mark led 'Slippery when wet', a steep ice column followed by a testing sequence of thin mixed moves on an ice smear before arriving on easier ground. His characteristically no nonsense approach of scurrying up a route although tested was never in any doubt and having organized the appropriate protection in the surrounding rock he was quick to complete the route and set up a belay. Steve meanwhile, developed 'hot aches' whilst seconding the pitch and struggled in pain to reach the top. After a brief respite and some lunch the dynamic duo were ready for more, and Steve's lead was 'Skylight', a steep chimney embedded with ice, so narrow in places you could scarcely squeeze through the cleft. The ice consisted of a series of awkward overhanging bulges that fortunately had good 'hook' placements for the tools. Once atop the 160 foot crux pitch Mark followed vocalizing the usual hardcore obscenities for someone seconding a demanding ice pitch.

On the last day in Ouray the ice team all returned to the gorge where Dave and Shiver demonstrated their axeless climbing skills and charmed a middle aged Texan couple who were visiting Ouray for the first time.

The dynamic duo did three more routes including 'Popsicle', a steep bulging pillar requiring several strenuous ice screw placements on vertical and overhanging terrain hanging off one arm.

And then it was time for a soak in the hot springs, a blissful experience floating and watching the fading evening light on the surrounding snow clad alpine peaks. This was followed by the drive to Glenwood Springs and the customary last night - 'I'm still alive' drinking session at the end of an ice climbing trip. A hilarious evening was spent in a micro brewery, although a wonder that we were not thrown out. Full marks to the ice maiden who whilst playing 'footsie' with Mark managed to slide under the table in hysterics before later ending up in a flowerbed on the walk back to the motel. The waitress meanwhile had her eyes on Dave.

The following day, still rather intoxicated the famous four drove to Denver and after lengthy security checks and full body searches boarded flights back to the UK.

A thoroughly successful trip, now the 5th annual winter water ice meet in the club. Long live cowboys, ice chicks and steep ice!