|
|
Marylebone Mountaineering Club Library and Information > Meet Reports |
|
Climbing in Mallorca
by Nick Kemp (photos by Mark Krassowski) |
|
A sizeable conference of the more venerable members of the MMC descended out of the sky into Palma having set off from various UK airports. The tally was 14 adults with three babes in arms, set upon climbing, cycling, walking and generally having a good time. For those acquainted with Mallorca, we were based in Puerto Soller, which is on the North coast of the Island. The North is definitely the upmarket end and is about as far removed from the high rise package tourism tradition of Magaluf as it is possible to be. Puerto Soller also boasts one of the few beaches on the northern side, which was an added benefit, though not one that was used much by us. The weather upon arrival was distinctly chilly and the previous few weeks had been some of the coldest in living memory, however the forecast was for gradually improving weather so no one was too dismayed.
Meanwhile David and Tom visited Valdemossa and climbed a number of 5s and 5+s where they too were somewhat sobered by the stiffness of the grades. Valdemossa is a modest crag partly by the roadside and partly up a picturesque hillside. Its convenience was to make it the crag of choice for that "last day climb". Sulphi (5+) David reckoned to be the best route. Andy wasn't climbing due to Tennis Elbow and so extracted his bike from its travelling case and proceeded to assemble it with the precision of a neuro-surgeon and the reverence of a masonic ritual. He then went off on this incredibly light bike to rack up unfeasibly huge distances in unfathomably short times. He tended to set off later than the climbers and return earlier so no one actually saw him on the bike but rest assured he did actually use it because when the climbers returned of an evening the bike was always facing the other way. This should scotch any malicious rumours that he spent his time lounging in bed and haunting the local Irish bar only to return before we did to fiddle the bike's odometer for the day. Meanwhile Helen, Eileen, Alix, Zoe and Maria had a bumbly day exploring the immediate environs of Soller.
Chris T, Maria, Zoe and JB headed off on an epic walk over the mountains above Soller. A guidebook called the walk 'The route of the thousand zig zags' and they weren't joking. The highest point was about 1067m and the total climb was about 1100m. To get back there was a very interesting descent from the ridge along a very poorly marked and steep track. After much faffing and backtracking (particularly by JB), the group finally got back to the apartment about 8.00pm
Meanwhile Eileen, Niamh, David and Bea went to Soller on the tram. On Wednesday Nick, Clare, Andy, Zoe, John, Chris, and Maria went on a sightseeing trip around the island that took in the monastery at Lluc, Pollensa, Alcudia and Deia. Deia is a picturesque village close to Soller that is chiefly famous in that Robert Graves lived there for most of his life. Alas he is now dead and buried but the village is still beautiful and is a renowned hideaway for various celebs and millionaires. Michael Douglas has a house there but we did not see him. John, Nick, Maria and Chris decided to investigate the beach and after a pleasant 20 minute stroll discovered and idyllic cove where Nick and John insisted upon taking the waters. Having found a spot where they thought no one would notice their lack of bathing wear (or any wear for that matter). Mark K and David meanwhile visited Sa Gubia where they climbed the 3 star classic La Ley Del Deseo (5+). This takes the prow at Sa Gubia to the right of the Normale. They also sieged the tendon sapping Mes Rapit Suc El Vent (6a) and climbed the first pitch of Estricina (5+), David succeeding in mounting the notorious buttocks adhered to the route! Tom and Eileen went with the Babe in Arms to Fornalutz. That evening a barbecue was organised at one of the apartments. This was a huge success and the only time that everyone really got together because with 14 people and 3 babies it becomes increasingly difficult to find a restaurant to accommodate the entire party. Thursday saw the climbers back on the rock. Nick and Clare went to Sa Gubia and romped up the
four pitch La Ley Del Deseo in perfect peace, having the whole crag to themselves. They then finished
off on Puta Perro (6a+) and an unnamed 6a.
The Marks and John B also came to Sa Gubia a little later and knocked off the 3 star Excalibur (5+). All five then headed off to Deia for a sundowner and a swim. Zoe showed up at the beach eventually having walked the way from Soller (3.5 hrs). It was while they were enjoying their sundowner at the beach bar that John and Nick realised that the bar had a perfect view of the previous day's bathing spot. Tom and Alix climbed Gubia Normal at Sa Gubia, a 9 pitch 4+ that goes from the gorge floor to the top of the pinnacle. They climbed with sacks and after 6 hours of climbing arrived at the top of the pinnacle and then continued for another hour and a half to the top of the mountain. Including the walk down it was an 8 hour day. Excellent views, great situation, a great route. Both returned after a very long day waxing lyrical about stupendous positions and wonderful rock. In the evening John, Mark K, Nick, Clare, Zoe and Andy went off to a hugely upmarket restaurant that Nick recommended. The meal was superb and doubly so for John whose order was confused so the good people gave him the extra main course gratis. Who says the MMC can't do it in style sometimes?
John, Chris and Maria went for a 4 hour walk up Mt Ofre and then along a ridge above the road between Soller and Pollenca. Eileen, Niamh and Tom and went for a walk around the cuber resevoir under Mt Massanala, followed by lunch in Pollenca and shoe shopping in Inca at the Camper factory. Saturday was the final day and Chris and Maria were up at the crack of dawn to take Zoe to the airport. Andy packed his bike in its box and headed off with John for some sightseeing on the beach. Nick, Clare and Mark K rounded off the week's climbing with a few gentle routes at Valdemossa. Overall the trip was a hugely enjoyed by everyone and thanks should go to Clare for organising it. The climbing was excellent and varied and a return visit would definitely be on most climbers' agenda. |