Marylebone Mountaineering Club
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Climbing in Mallorca
by Nick Kemp (photos by Mark Krassowski)

A sizeable conference of the more venerable members of the MMC descended out of the sky into Palma having set off from various UK airports. The tally was 14 adults with three babes in arms, set upon climbing, cycling, walking and generally having a good time. For those acquainted with Mallorca, we were based in Puerto Soller, which is on the North coast of the Island. The North is definitely the upmarket end and is about as far removed from the high rise package tourism tradition of Magaluf as it is possible to be. Puerto Soller also boasts one of the few beaches on the northern side, which was an added benefit, though not one that was used much by us.

The weather upon arrival was distinctly chilly and the previous few weeks had been some of the coldest in living memory, however the forecast was for gradually improving weather so no one was too dismayed.

On Sunday the climbing group consisting of Nick, Clare, Mark W, Mark K, Chris and John headed off to Sa Gubia. This was reached after a short drive from Soller and is a truly magnificent crag. A short walk along a dried up river bed leads to a narrow cleft between soaring cliffs of limestone. It is normally beautifully peaceful there but it was quite busy that Sunday. A Spanish group who had brought along a portable stereo (see how far you get at Stanage like that) and the occasional distant howl of a lobbing Frenchman marred the birdsong and chink of quickdraw on rock. There are around 100 routes at Sa Gubia ranging from short easy grades to great multi-pitch technical test pieces. It should be said here that Mallorcan grades are notoriously hard and many a competent 6a leader has had their self confidence and ego dented by being sandbagged on a day out at Sa Gubia. This undergrading is so prevalent that the Rockfax guidebook has adjusted the grades to something approaching normality in the guidebook. For reference all the grades quoted here are the Rockfax grades and even then there were some stiff ones. Clare and Nick started off with some relatively gentle climbing and romped up Cannabis in Vitro (4), Pataje Espanol (5) and Tantum Ergo (5) in quick succession. Nick then teamed up with Mark W and moved over to the other side of the valley to the Paret dels Colom sector and a few gnarly moments with Tia Melis (6a) and Estricnina (5+), which had the interesting instruction in the guidebook to climb the wall past the buttocks. Thus there was much fourth-form humour about mounting the buttocks, using the crack in the buttocks etc etc. Ho ho. Meanwhile Clare and Mark K had climbed Puta Perro (6a+) and the first pitch of an unnamed 4+. After that they joined Nick and Mark W and Mark K deftly nipped up the first undergraded pitch of Danzomania (5+) which was sportingly run out to boot. Chris Thring had finally dusted off his boots for the first time in years and proceeded to have a gentle introduction to sport cragging by methodically racking up a succession of 4s and 5s with John Bradshaw.

Meanwhile David and Tom visited Valdemossa and climbed a number of 5s and 5+s where they too were somewhat sobered by the stiffness of the grades. Valdemossa is a modest crag partly by the roadside and partly up a picturesque hillside. Its convenience was to make it the crag of choice for that "last day climb". Sulphi (5+) David reckoned to be the best route.

Andy wasn't climbing due to Tennis Elbow and so extracted his bike from its travelling case and proceeded to assemble it with the precision of a neuro-surgeon and the reverence of a masonic ritual. He then went off on this incredibly light bike to rack up unfeasibly huge distances in unfathomably short times. He tended to set off later than the climbers and return earlier so no one actually saw him on the bike but rest assured he did actually use it because when the climbers returned of an evening the bike was always facing the other way. This should scotch any malicious rumours that he spent his time lounging in bed and haunting the local Irish bar only to return before we did to fiddle the bike's odometer for the day.

Meanwhile Helen, Eileen, Alix, Zoe and Maria had a bumbly day exploring the immediate environs of Soller.

On Monday, feeling that the crowds that had plagued Sa Gubia would be back at work, Nick, Clare and Mark K headed off to Creveta on the North East side of the Island. This was a fair drive from Soller along a very windy mountain road and the weather was dull and leaden for much of the way. Upon arrival at the crag it appeared that it had just been raining and this had the gratifying effect of flushing a large number of the same French who had been crowding around Sa Gubia the previous day from the crag. The rock dried off fairly quickly and a pleasant day's climbing was had. Walking back to the car a German cyclist asked them where the road went and whether it would be okay to take his bike down it. Mark and Nick both gave vehement assurance that the road went down to Port Pollensa and that he would have no problems on his bike. They then thought no more of the incident until they saw said Teuton taking his bike not down the road but down the narrow steepening path that led part way to the crag and then to destinations unknown. Mark and Nick walked on thoughtfully.

Chris T, Maria, Zoe and JB headed off on an epic walk over the mountains above Soller. A guidebook called the walk 'The route of the thousand zig zags' and they weren't joking. The highest point was about 1067m and the total climb was about 1100m. To get back there was a very interesting descent from the ridge along a very poorly marked and steep track. After much faffing and backtracking (particularly by JB), the group finally got back to the apartment about 8.00pm

Tuesday was a big climbing day, which saw Chris, John, Nick, Clare, Alix, Maria and the two Marks at Cala Magraner. This is delightful crag, which has its own beach and a decent selection of single pitch routes. A veritable Stanage sur Mer. A ferocious number of routes were racked up and faith was restored as the grades were more in line with convention than had previously been the Mallorcan experience. Nick managed to get 11 leads in, which isn't really that hard on short bolted routes. Maria went off on a walk to explore the environs but was slightly stifled in her efforts in that a lot of the farms were marked as private property and festooned with warning signs of vicious dogs. Alix climbed with Mark K at Cala Magraner and made her first leads for a year. Looking lean and fit, her enthusiasm not dulled by pregnancy, birth and her year's layoff, Alix flew the flag for returning mothers and declared the day a very good one.

Meanwhile Eileen, Niamh, David and Bea went to Soller on the tram.

On Wednesday Nick, Clare, Andy, Zoe, John, Chris, and Maria went on a sightseeing trip around the island that took in the monastery at Lluc, Pollensa, Alcudia and Deia. Deia is a picturesque village close to Soller that is chiefly famous in that Robert Graves lived there for most of his life. Alas he is now dead and buried but the village is still beautiful and is a renowned hideaway for various celebs and millionaires. Michael Douglas has a house there but we did not see him. John, Nick, Maria and Chris decided to investigate the beach and after a pleasant 20 minute stroll discovered and idyllic cove where Nick and John insisted upon taking the waters. Having found a spot where they thought no one would notice their lack of bathing wear (or any wear for that matter).

Mark K and David meanwhile visited Sa Gubia where they climbed the 3 star classic La Ley Del Deseo (5+). This takes the prow at Sa Gubia to the right of the Normale. They also sieged the tendon sapping Mes Rapit Suc El Vent (6a) and climbed the first pitch of Estricina (5+), David succeeding in mounting the notorious buttocks adhered to the route!

Tom and Eileen went with the Babe in Arms to Fornalutz.

That evening a barbecue was organised at one of the apartments. This was a huge success and the only time that everyone really got together because with 14 people and 3 babies it becomes increasingly difficult to find a restaurant to accommodate the entire party.

Thursday saw the climbers back on the rock. Nick and Clare went to Sa Gubia and romped up the four pitch La Ley Del Deseo in perfect peace, having the whole crag to themselves. They then finished off on Puta Perro (6a+) and an unnamed 6a.

The Marks and John B also came to Sa Gubia a little later and knocked off the 3 star Excalibur (5+). All five then headed off to Deia for a sundowner and a swim. Zoe showed up at the beach eventually having walked the way from Soller (3.5 hrs). It was while they were enjoying their sundowner at the beach bar that John and Nick realised that the bar had a perfect view of the previous day's bathing spot.

Tom and Alix climbed Gubia Normal at Sa Gubia, a 9 pitch 4+ that goes from the gorge floor to the top of the pinnacle. They climbed with sacks and after 6 hours of climbing arrived at the top of the pinnacle and then continued for another hour and a half to the top of the mountain. Including the walk down it was an 8 hour day. Excellent views, great situation, a great route. Both returned after a very long day waxing lyrical about stupendous positions and wonderful rock.

In the evening John, Mark K, Nick, Clare, Zoe and Andy went off to a hugely upmarket restaurant that Nick recommended. The meal was superb and doubly so for John whose order was confused so the good people gave him the extra main course gratis. Who says the MMC can't do it in style sometimes?

On Friday David joined the Marks and Nick for an exciting and sometimes comical drive up to the Castell del Alaro. This involved several kms of very rough, steep, dirt track, with hairpins and a precipitous drop off at the side. 'Don't worry,' was Nick's cheery comment from behind the wheel, 'I've never had an accident, apart from once when driving a hire car in Spain'. The grades at Alaro were quite stiff, which dampened enthusiasm a little but Nick and Mark W were joined by a thoroughly competent lone German who spurred them on to an excellent unnamed 3 star 6a+. Gathering heat gradually drained enthusiasm but it was a good day and everybody seems to have led 6a cleanly. They finished off by nipping back to the beach at Deia where Clare, Helen and Jessica were relaxing after a busy day introducing Jessica to the delights of wondering round historical sites at Valdemossa. Zoe spent a pleasant day sunbathing and relaxing.

John, Chris and Maria went for a 4 hour walk up Mt Ofre and then along a ridge above the road between Soller and Pollenca. Eileen, Niamh and Tom and went for a walk around the cuber resevoir under Mt Massanala, followed by lunch in Pollenca and shoe shopping in Inca at the Camper factory.

Saturday was the final day and Chris and Maria were up at the crack of dawn to take Zoe to the airport. Andy packed his bike in its box and headed off with John for some sightseeing on the beach. Nick, Clare and Mark K rounded off the week's climbing with a few gentle routes at Valdemossa.

Overall the trip was a hugely enjoyed by everyone and thanks should go to Clare for organising it. The climbing was excellent and varied and a return visit would definitely be on most climbers' agenda.