July 2006
French Sport Climbing Next Meet Social Beta
Tight Club

Climbers as a breed have certain tendencies, which though they cannot be applied universally would generally be acknowledged to be true. They don't tend to be hugely into team sports (following a football team obsessively would cut into a lot of climbing time), they are more likely to own cycles and they are definitely not into the "Hello" celebrity culture. This may be because despite climbing having a very honourable democratic tradition of welcoming blue collar types (Brown and Whillans immediately spring to mind) the traits listed above are shared by a lot of the middle classes. One aspect however that is more difficult to explain is why climbers seem to be so mean as a breed. I do not use the word in the sense that they in anyway are unfair or duplicitous to other people but more that they make a virtue of being parsimonious towards themselves. You will find, especially when organising foreign trips, that they will fight tooth and claw to seek out the cheapest car hire firms with the worst cars and take flights at hideously inconvenient times just to save a few pounds or euros here or there. When shopping for equipment too they will seek out obscure shops with discounted end of line gear and then proffer a range of BMC membership cards to yet reduce the hapless retailer's already paper thin margin. They will elect to camp in areas profuse with hospitable B&Bs in completely foul weather and have lengthy debates about whether monthly passes at the wall are good value (averaging out the frequency of summer and winter visits). Sometimes these practices can be regarded simply as efficient use of resources but sometimes they plain false economy, for example somebody in the club was once terribly proud for buying some second hand cams from Eastern Europe on Ebay. Even this is not as bad as an acquaintance (not in the club) who drove back to London from the coast once with his oil warning light on because he "had some oil at home". Most of the time this niggardly attitude only affects the person concerned but occasionally it has wider implications as it tends to be assumed when organising group activities that everyone will always want the cheapest option on offer. There are also a few examples where people have been known to rely upon other's goodwill, for example turning up on a meet with enough food for Kate Moss's elevenses and then cruising around the campsite asking if they can "borrow" any spare food. These sort of examples tend to be in the minority however.

One must remember that these people are not students or unemployed people on benefits. By and large they are highly qualified, well paid professionals who are definitely in the upper income brackets. So why do they pretend to be so poor? I think there are two reasons. First, as mentioned above climbing does have a healthy democratic tradition and unlike a lot of other sports the equipment is actually not too expensive and hence one cannot up ones grade by chucking a lot of money at it. This means that it would be considered contrary to the spirit of climbing to make an ostentatious display of wealth in front of other climbers. If you were into powerboat racing it really wouldn't matter because it is assumed that you are as rich as Midas to take part but with climbing you have to assume that everyone is as poor as a church mouse so you simply don't suggest that everyone has got loads of moolah.

The second reason is that in pretending to be poor it releases the atavistic subconscious desire to be young again. Thus your contemporaries my be driving their BWM X5 to the golf course but while you have spent the equivalent of an Ethiopian toddlers pocket money on you weekend's entertainment you can feel morally superior because being poor equates with being young and having fun again. The real irony here of course is that the naturally prudent climber probably has a modest mortgage and owns his car outright, unlike the Beemer driver who has debt equivalent to that of a Central American country.

Maybe the question has to be turned around and we should ask not why climbers are mean but why mean people become climbers. If one looks at it this way around the whole thing makes a lot more sense. The actual climbing is free, equipment is reasonably priced and once bought tends to have a long life, you are not forced into an expensive social scene (Cocktails at 7 for 8 in the front porch of my Quasar, Black Tie! I don't think so) and even when venturing abroad this tends to be outside of the peak season and when prices are generally lower.

There are of course genuine reasons for taking the cheaper option sometimes, there is more independence and privacy in a tent than in a bunk house and it sometimes it is simply more fitting to camp in the environment rather than trying to insulate yourself from it. It is quite easy to cook campsite food that is just as good as pub food and will remove the need to queue on busy weekends or search out special dietary requirements. Car sharing is a purely logical choice and reduces congestion, pollution and is far safer on a long journey where driving can be shared. These factors alone however cannot explain all the penny-pinching and scrimping that goes on so there must be other factors at work. It is probably a combination of naturally frugal types being immersed in an environment where parsimony is something of a fetish that leads to the extreme behaviour that can be witnessed.

Another aspect of this that is worthy of comment is the almost sexual joy that is experienced by these petty savings. A discounted pair of climbing shoes, finding some reusable car at the crag, a cheap campsite, all these will evoke the same pleasure that a two year gains when finding a favourite toy, previously thought to be lost. To finish with one example, I once stopped at a motorway service station with a certain Mike Woolworths (to use a thinly veiled sobriquet). He emerged having bought a coffee beaming broadly. "That's how you do it, you use a medium sized cup but press the large button, that way you only pay for a medium!"

Rambler

Gower:5th - 6th August


Organiser: Miles Barker (m) 07770878691
(e)gower@themmc.org.uk

Staying at the Three Cliffs Bay Campsite




Pub Nights The regular pub night has now been reinstated to coincide with the committee meeting. Thus if you show up you can be reasonably confident that there will be a smattering of recognisible faces. These are happening at 8.15 on the first Monday of the month at Dirty Dicks just opposite Liverpool Street Station. Confusingly however the next one is on Monday 31 July. So now you know!


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Deadline for copy for the next newsletter is 1st August. Please send all copy to Nick Kemp at newsletter@themmc.org.uk.

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