August 2006
Peak District June Llangollen July Next Meet Social Beta
Warming Panned

Warming up before climbing (and more or less any sort of physical activity) has become something of a sacred rite. All fitness instructors, it would seem, have been indoctrinated with the same dogma that all exercise must be built up to gradually and that not to do so will lead to horribly painful, crippling and quite possibly disfiguring injuries. Thus during football matches each team watches the touchline to see who is running up and down as a warm up so as to anticipate any possible substitutions. No doubt they all believe that this is necessary. At climbing walls too there are areas set aside for stretching and warm ups and you can see ostensibly normal people doing the most weird contorted activities rarely seen outside yoga classes. There are even some warm up exercises that seem to have been developed specifically for climbing. You can often see people doing an animated wrist rolling exercise that involves interlocking the fingers and then rotating the hands and wrists rapidly. This appears to be vaguely reminiscent of the 1970’s Nescafe advert with Gareth Hunt (a one man bit of rhyming slang) doing his one handed “Richer Smoother Flavour” wrist shimmy. Some folk do so much stretching and posing that it looks as if they have gone to the wrong place, maybe they have and on another night they spend a very frustrating evening trying to traverse the walls at a Yoga class.

The question must arise as to whether it does any good. Studies have shown (click here for the story) that warm ups have no effect in preventing injury and that mankind is designed for sudden physical activity from rest. This is quite logical if we consider that we are still in cave-man’s bodies and no palaeolithic is going to catch an antelope if he has to do five minutes of yoga on spotting his quarry before he can give chase. Thinking along these lines we should be able to jump straight into vigorous exercise with little risk of injury, though it must be said your average Palaeolithic was probably a lot more active that your average Londoner.

This of course is not the whole story because warming up has another equally important psychological effect. The head game in climbing is much more important than in most other sports and thus any activity to get people in the right frame of mind is going to be helpful. You are not going to climb at your best while stressed and anxious and if a few minutes yoga helps this then who is any one to pooh-pooh it.

Another important point is that stretching, though not preventing injury, will eventually improve your flexibility. For men especially this becomes much worse with age and so it is probably worth considering if you don’t do it now.

Another curious point is that although people spend ages warming up at walls I cannot think of any time that I have ever seen anyone warming up at a real crag. People just wander in, rope up and off they go. If warm ups were so important wouldn’t they all be bringing yoga mats to the crag for a spot of Ashtanga in the lea of Stanage?

At the end of the day it is a personal choice but don’t believe that it is a panacea for all your ills.

NK

Gower:5th - 6th August


Organiser: Miles Barker (m) 07770878691
(e)gower@themmc.org.uk

Staying at the Three Cliffs Bay Campsite


Pub Nights

The regular pub night has now been reinstated to coincide with the committee meeting. Thus if you show up you can be reasonably confident that there will be a smattering of recognisible faces. These are happening at 8.15 on the first Monday of the month at Dirty Dicks just opposite Liverpool Street Station. The next one is on Monday 4 September and judging by the merry types turning out at closing time after the last meeting it is becoming quite a social affair. know!

Dinner Meet

It is depressing to think in during these lazy, hazy, crazy days that the summer, like life, is alas short. But as the shadows lengthen and the evenings unmask their first hint of an autumnal chill we can all look forward to the annual dinner. This is taking place in the Brecon Beacons on 24-26 November. Contact Paul Grinnel on 07812345504 or at dinner@themmc.org.uk and book early to avoid disappointment.


New Wall in London

A new climbing wall has opened in Swiss Cottage (still nowt decent south of the river). If anyone wants to visit and do a review please let me know.

Canoe Trip

Jules Usher is organising a canoe trip down the Wye in September. sounds like a laugh (well it always is if she's involved. Contact her at canoe@themmc.org.uk

Copy

Deadline for copy for the next newsletter is 1st September. Please send all copy to Nick Kemp at newsletter@themmc.org.uk.

Club Library

The club has an ever expanding collection of books for use by members. These include climbing and walking guides, as well as guides to first aid, navigation, mountain weather etc. For a complete list check out the website.

MMC Online: themmc.org.uk

Be part of it! It's time for a bit of face lift for our erstwhile website. So what is good and what is bad? What should remain and what should we add? Please send your thoughts and ideas to webmaster@themmc.org.uk .