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::MMC Newsletter May 2009 - Still a Wiki-ish Newletter::

This months newsletter has the easter meet reports. Bea's Ecrins meet planning should be mostly complete. Contact Neville soon if your planning to go on the pembroke meet. ::Jules - who is organising the Swanage meet? :: I will endevour to update the club's Library page on the website as well this month, only just discovered it - ops. Next month's newsletter will be later in the month as there will be a bigger gap between UK meets rather than the busy away month of May.

::Meets

 Les Ecrins 26th June - 5th July *** The meet of the year***

This is the meet you don’t want to miss out!  The best campsite surrounded by everything the mountains and glaciers can offer you… and everything is walking distance, even the wine shop. Choose one of the Grandes Routes, climb it and return exhausted to a beautiful fire at the campsite to enjoy dinner and your well-deserved beer. There are easy bolted single pitch for your first climb, long easy bolted multi-pitch to warm up and practice your rope work (don’t forget getting down is always the most difficult part, so make sure you and your partner are very comfortable setting up abseils) and all the grades of difficulty and length to satisfy the hard-core ones, including long trad routes. Maybe this year the MMC conquers Barre des Ecrins at 4102m? Please contact Beatriz.

Font en Feu Easter April 2009

For the fourth year in a row the club has run a parallel Easter meet in Fontainebleau so it can now be considered firmly fixed in the club calendar. This year the meet was attended by die-hard Bleausards AG, Simon MC, Nick, Sonia, Beatriz joined by debutants Fatima, Alex, Rob, Nancy, Gemma, John and Simon Gouldman.

Despite a minor panic in marshalling the troops onto the ferry in time, the advance party of Nick & Simon’s cars caught the schedule boat and blasted through a moonlit Picardie night to arrive at La Musardiere at 3 AM. They pitched in their regular spot and woke a few hours later to a bright clear spring morning.

The uninitiated may not be aware but there are so many bouldering areas that even the regulars can still find new places so the team drove off to Franchard Cusiniere . There they spent a frustrating hour marching around the environs until it dawned on them that they were the only ones with bouldering mats in completely the wrong car park (early collective FWit possibly). So they abandoned this plan and took the easy option of going to the more familiar Franchard Isatis. This is a beautiful wooded sector and the forest soon rang to the thump of boot on mat and multilingual howls of delight as the occasional touch problem was cracked.

A brief shower scared a few lightweights off but this was soon over and the problem bagging continued. There was further entertainment from a group of Spaniards, one of whom managed to play the guitar while standing on slack line half stoned, impressive! Eventually thirst and hunger drove the team off to the supermarket in Milly, meanwhile back at the campsite Rob, Nancy and Gemma had turned up. A hearty cookup of chilli con carne and rice was washed down with the inevitable “Neville” of cheap wine. Then Simon G cracked out his guitar resulting in a drunken sing-song around an illicit fire (instigated by Bea). It should be realised here that the campsite is in the middle of a forest and there are signs all over the place forbidding fires. These exist in the forest generally, at the entrance to the campsite, on the desk in reception and dotted around the site. Thus there can be no doubt that fires are strongly discouraged. Nevertheless small fires still persist.

Slightly the worse for too much Neville our team were invigorated by the traditional pain-au-chocolate and croissant breakfast and eventually a successful attempt was made at locating Franchard Cuisiniere. The bouldering there was similar in style to Isatis but a little quieter, possibly because it was that much harder to find. Again the threatened bad weather did not materialise and shirts-off climbing was at times the order of the day. Eventually muscles tired and skin wore thin and our team retired to their secluded woodland glade. At this point the heavens opened but luckily Bea and Simon then came back from the shops proudly bearing an enormous tarp. Eventually, using a slack line (never leave the country without one) string and a some sticks a superb shelter was rigged to rival the millennium dome.

Following the previous night’s rain, the world and his bouldering mat had decided to hit 95.2 because it dries quickly. This was walkable from the campsite, unless you are Simon MC who led his merry band a wandering trail until they turned up a full hour after the others. There seemed to be an awful lot of Dutch at 95.2 mixing their guttural tongue with recognisable climbing terms (no word for sloper in Dutch unsurprisingly). Bea tried to organise a wooding party on the walk back to the campsite which was entirely successful except that she forgot that she had to pass the campsite office. At that point the faggots were quickly identified for what they were and confiscated.

Nevertheless a fire was still built that evening (despite the wet logs). This was going nicely until out the inky blackness emerged a very polite but very firm campsite owner bearing a huge jerrican of water. Thus the final night’s fire was comprehensively doused. Being French he bore us no malice and us none him and the Neville was eventually finished.

The final day is traditionally spent at Bas Cuvier because it is on the way home and right by the road and this Easter was no exception. Tents were struck and packed and Nick managed to wedge five people and three bouldering mats into his long suffering car.

And so after some valedictory problem bagging everyone pointed North for Calais and thus ended the meet, apart from AG and Simon who insisted on doing some bouldering around Calais docks while waiting for a fog delayed ferry.

All in all it was a great meet and the weather was a huge improvement on the previous year.

Thanks to Simon for organising.

Iceman

Cornwall Easter April 2009

Tony and Anna arrived at the campsite first in lashing rain; they wrestled with their new jumbo tent and then proceeded to cook a four-course meal. Oh the luxury!

Next was John Patterson who was coming to grips with his weekend pass: "...Drove through four hours of rain, got to campsite. It stopped. Put up tent. Clearly Gods are with me. Rain started and continued another 12 hours. What am I doing here?"

The next twenty arrived in dribs and drabs. Everyone woke up the new morning to find the sky's clear and sun shining, albeit a bit of a chilly breeze.

John P teamed up with Alix for the day. "Where shall we climb? Anywhere but Bosi, everyone goes to Bosi on the first day of the bank holiday; it'll be really busy. So where did we go? Bosi. Good day out though, did a couple of classics with Alix - Door Post and Ochre Slab (the severe version), most enjoyable."

Cath and Tom had other Idea's they went off to Trewavas where Tom Dixson lead Mexicano HS, Joy S, Mascara VS, Carrivick VS, Mousetrap S; and Cath lead Ivy Chimney VD and Bramble VD.

Meanwhile Steve, Silvia and Stephanie who left the big smoke in the wee small hours of Fri morning. Where greeted by a gorgeous day when they arrived, so Steve and Steph went to Bosi and Silv walked from Bosi back to campsite along the coast. Steph led both pitches of Nameless - a pleasant VS, as plans to do Paragon were scuppered by a very slow party of 3 faffing around on the first belay.

Chuck and Wendy also went to Bosi, climbing routes so enjoyable that neither of them can remember what they were. So did Anna and Tony they did a few v-diffs. The sea was blue and to sit there looking out to sea was terrific.

Enough about climbing! What was everyone else up to on Friday?

Neville, Sarah, Andy and Victoria went into St Ives for a wander around - to eat Ice cream and Cornish Pasties. Neville ordered an amazing ice cream - one scoop of cherry cheesecake and one of raspberry Pavlova. He had taken about 3 licks of it though when suddenly there was a THWOMP and his ice cream had gone! "A f****ing b**st**d seagull had stolen it!!" Apparently that's quite common in St Ives - there are warning signs everywhere.

Elwyn and Robin arrive at lunchtime With Meggie the dog in tow. They walked into St Ives to try out the beaches, it turned out the Tait beach has the best surf. Gained along the way were Andy M, Sarah G, and Neville & Vicky. They went for a paddle. Robin went swimming, he was the only one in the water in trunks everyone else more sensibly sticking to a wetsuit.

Sarah G then navigated the group to find the mythical '3ft Pastie of St Ives'. The group eventually settled for something a little shorter but very filling in front of the church. The group's numbers swelled further by the arrival of Jim and Lucy then went to a local tavern to sample found some of the local firewater (or Cider as its known down there).

Weather was so good someone had the bright idea of a BBQ. Great idea at 15.00, not so good at 20.00. By the time the coals were hot the frost was beginning to set on the grass. Everyone huddled closer and closer to the warmth in down jackets and woolly hats - pub beckoned.

Saturday was another good day.

Cath climbed with Dave Dees. They started so early that the sun had not dried out the rock yet. So Dave had to employ alpine tactics to led Autumn Flakes HS. Chuck and Neville Arrived to find him aiding the first section! Later in the day Little Brown Jug VS was much enjoyed by both, climbed in good style.

Chuck and Nev had the same problem with wet rock so decided on little brown jug for a warm up. It looked the driest. After last years' fiasco, when not enough gear was placed then kicking it out mid crux. Chuck put an extra piece in for good measure this time. What a beauty of a climb! They then lead the first two pitches of Paragon and last pitch of Namless.

Robin, Jim & Elwyn were driving back to the camp from St Ives when they came across a group of MMC walkers, including Jims dog Lemony. What this must have looked like from behind must have been bizarre - car stopped, very brief exchange of words, dog yanked in the back, speed off. The local police are still investigating Mrs Grimshaw's frantic report.

Steve and Silvia joined Tom Eileen Naeve and Orla at Trewarras Head. Much time was spent chilling and vegetating in the sun before John P, Niki and Tony/Anna showed up 4 more MMC jollity. Meantime Steve was feelin' the effects of too much sun and Silvia had developed a migraine! The sunstroke was obviously not too serious as Steve then climbed an HVS pitch with Tom - Thomson's chimney. Then they all went off to the Beach.

Jim did a bit of bouldering/scrambling/Soloing around Bagy. "It all started as a bouldering problem with a nice 4c move at 12 feet. Problem was I couldn't reverse it!! Had to climb another 120 feet to the top! I was Cacking myself!!"

Jim has declare that he will always carry a rack and rope when bouldering in future.

Victoria and Andy were amongst those who headed over to Bosigran. "We climbed 'In Between'VDiff and the first pitch of 'Andrew' VDiff (we decided that 'Andrew' wasn't as compelling as the real deal and bailed on it)." Robin & Elwyn also at Bosy climbed a couple of routes amongst the hordes.

Steff and Rick climbed at Chair ladder.

Kate and Andrew eased themselves back into the "trad" after a couple of years lay off and thoroughly enjoyed Bosigran and Chair Ladder, though they also managed to ease themselves into second breakfasts everyday, in true MMC style, and could perhaps work a little harder at getting to the crag before midday - but that would be a little too keen for most people.

That night everyone most people learned the lesson from the night before. And went to the pub for dinner. The mackerel was delicious.

Easter Sunday arrived and the millions of MMC children were full throttle on their Teletubbies accounts as their parents went on wild egg hiding expeditions. Painted eggs were 'rolled' or rather hurled down the Polmanter hill to shrieks of delight. It was going to be another beautiful day! Anna hid eggs up the crag for lucky climbers just behind. /p>

Cath became a tourist & went into St. Ives & did touristy things. Steve teamed up with 'Dither the detonator' and climbed in the morning at Zennor landward cliff. A beautifully located and steep single pitch crag with a classic VS and HVS which they had to themselves.. At least until dither reached his crux. Still awaiting that optimum moment of explosive power Dither paused on the crux of the VS, and he paused..... And he paused ...and he paused.... unfortunately detonation was not forthcoming and it took some verbal abuse from a Mancunian grandmother to get him moving! The pair then set off for Chair Ladder and with a rapidly advancing tide opted for the superb VS the Mitre, which sported a testing greasy first pitch.

Kate and Andrew went to Chair ladder and did a few easy leads where they found Chuck, Wendy and Cath getting more and more frustrated by a pair on Seal Slab taking near on two hours to change leads at the first belay.

With hope of finding quieter conditions Robin, Elwyn, Anita and Majia headed to Sennen. Robin, Elwyn and Meggie snuck round the headland at lowish tide taking about 5 mins. Majia and Anita opted for the more extreme scramble approach from the lookout point arriving about an hour later. Victoria and Andrew also headed over to Sennen with Neville and Stephanie.

Stephanie wasn't impressed when Neville unpacked his climbing gear and discovered he'd forgotten his quickdrawers. Luckily, Robin wasn't feeling too energetic that day, so was only too happy to lend them his gear after his first route. Victoria and Andy climbed 'Banana Flake' VDiff and then Andy led the first pitch of 'Black Slab' VDiff but got pumped so he took a breather and Neville led the rest. Fish and chips, pasties, ice cream and more beer followed.

On Sunday Eileen went walking with the Sarah G, Silvia, Lucy and Jim from Sennen to Bosigran. Tom and Alix took the kids on a walk over the tors above Zennor where they did some bouldering on and through some of the tors before scrambling down a gorse covered hillside and in to Zennor for an ice cream.

Anita seemed to enjoy the Sightseeing the most: "If you go to Cornwall, you should be ready for something else apart from only climbing and hiking, because it's impossible to survive there without... Sightseeing! At the moment when your eyes see St. Ives, Land's End or some other place for the first time, the promise 'no sightseeing' doesn't exist anymore - and you find yourself in the middle of St. Ives, eating Cornish ice-cream, looking for Cornish pie, visiting Tate St. Ives and taking huge amount of pictures. But yes, you also hike and climb. Maybe not so much as other times, but still - even if you can't understand a word in the weird map you have (thanks to the library!) or you get scared from waves next to the slippery rocks, you still do your best."

Anita climbed her first ever outdoor climbs. Majia opting for a more leisurely day decided to mostly photograph the climbers before heading out with Anita to walk Lands End. Anita climbed out but Majia preferred the lookout-scramble option again. Majia was 'rescued' by some passing climbers and was seen as a party of 4 roped together in the alpine ascent of the unclimbed, unnamed and technically difficult lookout-scramble.

Howard, Jules, Rhian(sp?) and Ben joined the remaining at sennen after a hard days jewellery shopping in St Ives proceeded to enjoy fish chips and ice cream over looking sennen beach.

Many were then seen frequenting the Engine Inn Pub at Cripplesease where the local storyteller was more than ably assisted by Ben (aged 5).

Back at the campsite Steve and Silvia went for a romantic dinner at the porthgwidden beach cafe. While most others went to the pub to stay warm. Nice days, cold nights...

It rained on Monday and everyone went home. But three nice days out of four ain't bad.

Chuck

::News, Births, Marriages & Other Slander

Social events includes the Great Nepalese tonight, see the Great Mike for details about this Great Do.

Rumours abound that 'Neville and the Nevillettes; are playing a 1 off special gig at Rob's housewarming in Wimbledon on the 30th May. Should be a good BBQ with various bands playing see Verity for further info on that one.

Other than that all the engagements and births haven't been MMC ones this month :)

::Club Information

Safety

There have been some fairly poor practices noticed of late. Climbing is dangerous and accidents do happen. Please look at this section of the website or try and go on a course if you have any doubts about your ability.

Copy

Deadline for copy for the next newsletter is June 24th or whenever I have enough content... Please send all copy to Robin newsletter. There are lots of meets coming up in rapid fire so its time to dust off your tents and let get climbing, bouldering and walking. Please contact the organisers directly if you are coming on the meet. Don't forget it is the responsibility for the meet organiser to write the meet report and collect the images.