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Marylebone Mountaineering Club Library and Information > Meet Reports |
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By Wobbly Helmet
Saturday
Frost on the ground but not a cloud in the sky! Such was Snowdonia’s welcome to the MMC on Saturday morning. Over thirty of us had managed to navigate our ways to the designated field in the Cae Du campsite, perhaps aided by the presence of the Collier’s caravan. There was a good mix of seasoned regular’s (last to get up and in no particular hurry to do anything) and prospective members (up at the crack of dawn and wondering why no one left the campsite until 11am, or searching vainly for a washbasin). The climbers eventually sorted themselves out in to teams and drove out of the campsite in a cloud of dust, leaving the walkers, David Marks, Vanessa Foulkes, Tara Creegan and Sarah Glover carless. So they headed towards to Moel Hebog, towering over Beddgelert. A good walk was reward with fantastic views down to the campsite, over to Snowdon and out to Cnicht and the Moelwyns. They also watched the very few rain clouds manoeuvering into position above some of the climbers on Tryfan. Lunch in the sun on Hebog summit. They then descended to Bwlch Meillionen while David listened to the FA Cup Final on his radio and then back through the Beddgelert Forest, via Yr Warws. Most of the climbers headed over to Ogwen (right over the other side of Snowdonia). Steve Melvin climbed First Pinnacle Rib on Tryfan with Tom Dixon, finishing before the hail storm! John Bradshaw and John Pattison were not so lucky and were still on their chosen route when the heavens opened. Climbing in big boots, the now slippery rock proved quite hazardous when John P fell and hurt his knee. He spent the rest of the weekend hobbling around the campsite. Mark Winfield and Paul Grinnel managed to complete Diadem HVS and HS before it started raining. Rob and Juliet, Tony and Simon all completed the same unknown six pitch route on Tryfan. Steve Gandy, keen to cure his seven year climbing itch, took Ed Marler in tow to climb in fine weather at Tremadoc (just down the road from the campsite). They began the year with Oberon (VD) and Christmas Curry (S). Ed led his first Severe and multi-pitch leads. Russell Beech and Barry Carter were less successful. They walked up (and down and up again) to Cyrn Las in search of Main Wall. By the time they had located the route, it had begun to rain. Sunday
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Russell and Barry made a second attempt on Main Wall. After yesterday’s recce, they had no problem finding the route, but were beaten to the start by a very slow moving group of three. The cold and damp conditions were too much for Barry and they had to abseil off after the first pitch. Russell was so desperate to get some climbing done that he begged to join the group of three in front, but to no avail. Steve Melvin and Debbie had more success after arriving earlier, and pronounced it to be the best HS in the country. Brad Carmady and John Hilary also had a successful day in the pass, climbing on Dinas Mot in the morning then Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c) in the afternoon. Meanwhile, Paul and Juliet climbed Christmas Curry (Micah finish) at Tremadoc. The walkers, now joined by Sue Husk (and her car!) headed towards Snowdonia. They started on the Watkin Path, left up to Bwlch Cwm Llan, and all the way up the South Ridge. Great views of Cloggy and Llechog. The summit was covered with people, like puffins on Bass Rock, but the sky was clear with views for miles. Monday
A good contingent of climbers headed over to Tremadoc. After a hearty breakfast at Eric's cafe, Steve G, Edmund, Paul, Ben and Jon laid seige to an Creag Dhu Wall (HS). Steve G led Paul and Ed up the off-balancing blocks of the first pitch. It ended with a foot (and palm?!) traverse right and what Barry termed a "fall to the right" before gaining the belay ledge. Ed led through on the second (first HS lead) which began with a hand traverse left and what the guidebook termed a position to "savour" on the buttress ascent which followed. Paul finished off passing so smoothly through the 4b crux of the third pitch he was convinced he'd gone off route. Meanwhile Ben led Jon up the first pitch, somewhat frustrated by single rope drag on the final traverse right. Given that, the late hour, and further wait needed for the others to clear the last pitch they decided to abseil off. Back on the main craig, Mark led Russell up his first route of the weekend (Grim Wall Direct E1 5b) and Steve Melvin and Kate Gerard climbed One Step in the Clouds. The later is a North Wales super classic, frequented by dozens of climbers every weekend. However proved no deterrent to Steve Melvin who was caught short half up the route. Shouts of “it stinks up here”, “someone shat all over the rock”, “I think I’m going to throw up” could be heard echoing around the crag for the rest of the day. Lastly, the campsite owner at Beddgelert seems uncertain that all our members paid for our accommodation. As we would like to return to this campsite, could anyone who forgot to pay please contact John Bradshaw on (h)0208 670 5226 or email johnb@moxley.co.uk. | |