Marylebone Mountaineering Club Library and Information > Meet Reports

Peaks Meet Report: June 2001

Saturday was a bit cloudy, but warm and dry. Unfortunately Faff had told people coming up in the morning to meet in Hathersage, even though there was a café on the campsite - meaning that we had one breakfast faff after another and nobody got moving until eleven. Plus ca change. The walkers consisted of just Lee and Juliet, who did a fabulous figure of eight walk taking in Longshaw Lodge, Padley Gorge, Carl Wark and Higger Tor, with a fine view of the climbers on Burbage Edge. The Climbers? Faff sez - "A bunch of us went up to High Neb - the "quiet" end of Stanage. Initially we comprised Kiwi pair, Aaron and Dale, John Dowling, Pete Murphy, Rick Sewards, Russ Beech and myself and arrived early - about noon I think! Jackie came up to watch the rippling muscles but soon fell asleep as various of us impersonated sloths - Rick doing this particularly well. Jackie later resorted to flinging away her bra in an effort to attract attention, when this didn't work she went for a tour of the Stanage area. Highlights of the day included several ascents of the classic High Neb Buttress VS4c***. Aaron led his first severe - an old classic called Eric's Eliminate. Several techniques were used to get up the stiff start to Norse Corner Climb HS4c - I demonstrated the extended nut placement trick (claiming it wasn't really cheating) while someone who shall remain nameless (although photographic evidence should shortly be available) used the blatant cheating Chris Thring technique, i.e. making a pile of stones at the bottom of the crag and then standing on them. Can't trust these ac-countants one inch. John B and John P accomplished Straight Crack 5, Twisted Crack 5, Eric's Eliminator 5, Inaccessible Slab Direct HS and G(r)unter VS 4c. Later in the day, while Russ and I had our backs turned, everyone suddenly departed and as they disappeared over the horizon shouted "Give Rick and Pete a lift back will you". So we went in search of the pair of them. They were hard to spot as they moved across the rock barely faster than the grit itself." Andy E and Mark W Climbed at Chee Tor, doing Leering Wall (HVS 5B) and the Chee Tor Girdle (HVS 5a).

Sunday was a lot brighter and hotter (for once). Deciding that Stanage would be too hot and crowded, Mark W deigned to go walking. But as the walkers consisted of Lee, Helen, Jackie and a 6.5 months pregnant Alix, he had to curb his Roadrunner instincts and actually look at the scenery. Which was very nice from the top of WinHill Pike, right behind the campsite and affording views of Ladybower reservoir and most of the rest of the Peak District. Andy went cycling. The Climbers? Faff again - "A fine day saw most people go to High Neb with the intention of walking to North End. Sneaky Pete had other ideas and led a faction comprising John Dowling, Russ, Clare Murphy and myself along to North End by the much shorter route of parking at the North End parking area! Pete then sneakily pointed myself at a gruesomely steep jamming crack of an HVS so I ran away and was so desperate to avoid anything strenuous did a tenuous bold slab called Incursion El 5b* instead. Russ tried to follow but escaped up the adjacent The Green Streak HVS4c while John Dowling on one of his rare outings happily sauntered up the El - a true artist. He then led Russ and Juliet up a couple of Severes. Meanwhile Pete, suitably gruffed, led myself up what seemed to be quite an appropriate climb for Mr. Murphy, called Old Salt HVS 5a**, and a fine climb it was to. Others had a fun time on the easier slabs and at one point Ruth and John were spotted, having made it from High Neb. Last but not least, Rick made it along to join us though barely had he arrived than everyone else left, leaving me and Rick alone. Be-fore I knew it I was roped into seconding him on The Green Streak HVS 4c. Rick completed it remarkably quickly (probably because there was only one possible gear placement on the whole climb) and well before the sun set. Rick and I then went our separate ways leaving only Rick's rope at the crag - which is still there to this day as far as we know." Back to the Library