Marylebone Mountaineering Club
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North Pembroke Meet Report
By Henry

Mad Londoners Drive 260 miles to avoid the Sun!

Whilst a most of London enjoyed this last weekend baking in 30 degrees centigrade and basking under clear blue skies, a strange group of Londoners found it too much. This group of so called "mountaineers" drove miles in order to avoid the weekend in London, where the weather this weekend has been described as "gorgeous," "amazing" and "positively Mediterranean" by many of those staying around London.

The group belong to the Marylebone Mountaineering club. Four of the most dedicated fine weather avoiders (John B, Lucy P, Brad and Henry) even set off on Thursday to find some cloud and mist to keep them content. Brad, an Australian, was quoted as saying, "well if it is sunny, I don't think it would be an authentic British experience." Apparently Lucy spent Friday enjoying a lovely coastal walk to Whitesands bay in the mist, whilst Brad, John B and Henry contented themselves by rock climbing at Porth Clais, with Brad leading Red Wall (S) and a couple of other HS and VS routes, whilst John B led Sea Rider (VS 4c). Back at the campsite, this group were surprised to find long term fine weather avoider Ian Weir enjoying the Pembrokeshire scenery in the cloud.

That night more of the group arrived, and what was a reasonably full campsite became a forest of MMC tents. A rather upset Harley Davidson owner who was one of the lucky souls to be surrounded by MMC tents got a bit fed up with the late arrivals, but some stern words from Jules put him in his place. The next day saw some frenzied discussion of where exactly activities should be undertaken in order to make the most of the poorest weather in the southern half of Britain. Sarah G, Sarah W, Jane, Kate C, Cheryl and Katrina went west along the coast path all the way to Whitesands Bay where Sara G, Sarah W and Katharina went for a refreshing dip in the sea. The party returned via St David's, past the huge ruined Bishop's Palace and a rehearsal for concert in cathedral which was "very atmospheric".

Steve and Simon started off with Shiraz on Velvet Wall at St Non's (HVS 5b), before moving on to the unfrequented crag of Trwyn Llwyd on St David's Head where they did the 3 star HVS classic Barard. Simon led pitches 1 and 3, and Steve the crux 2nd pitch (5a+) - a very awkward exposed move followed by a 'swim' up a holdless slabby corner to the belay stance. Alix and AG went off to Porth Clais and did a total of five routes. This included the popular Red Wall, and AGs first lead climbs, of which his second was no lesser grade than VS. It should also be pointed out that this man is climbing with a metal pin in his elbow. John B and Catherine also went to Porth Clais and did a couple of routes, including Glaze Crack (HS 4b).

Mark and Nick set off for a crag north of St David's, but after a lengthy walk-in and faff locating the crag, it turned out to be rather chossy and missing belay stakes. They moved to another crag and set up the abseil, but found that it started raining by this time, so the despondent pair returned to the campsite and contemplated an early start to the day's drinking. Before they could open a bottle the weather cleared, so they joined the others at Porth Clais and still managed a couple of HVSs and a VS.

The remainder of the party went to Creag Cerfai. Brad, Henry and Kate G did Mildred's Mindtrap (HS 4b), White Wall (HS 4b), Cerfai Crack (VS 4b) and Amorican (now VS 5a I think). Russ and Zoe started on Cerfai Crack and were then joined by Sean (who arrived at lunch time and found us by wandering along the coast path) for White Wall and Mildred Mindwarp. Sean took them up White Corner (D), which was his first lead. Rob Brooks, Adrian, Daniel and Jules also did the same routes, though who led which ones I could not be sure. Robin Mitton, recovering from a motorbike battered ankle, led Lucy up some of the easier routes. There was a lot of climbing done on this crag that day, so I may have missed people and routes out. It is probably easier to say that Cerfai has been well and truly MMCed for another year or two.

Robin, Kate G, Lucy and Henry decided to cut the climbing short to get some tea in St David's. Some nameless individual (female, from Christchurch NZ) would also like me to add that I was approached by a woman who asked me, "Are you the 60p man?" The fact that I was standing near the entrance to the car park, wearing a bright yellow wind proof cycling jacket, and that she was driving a car full of kids, does obviously not detract from the humour of this hilarious story (its all right, I did laugh too). Kate G and Brad then went out for a bit more climbing, where Kate seconded Brad up Shiraz for what she thought was the first E1 she had seconded, which unfortunately turned out to have been down graded to HVS in the new guidebook.

After returning to the campsite, the party split in the bbq'ers (I see no fog) and pubbers, which turned into an enjoyable relaxing evening.

The next day was similarly complicated. Sarah G, Lucy and Sarah W walked east along the coast to Solva where they wandered around the village and then back the same way, which Sarah W described as, "another fantastic day: amazing cliffs, little bays, weird cave formations and wild flowers." The other group of walkers (Adrian, Jane and Kate C) went around Strumble Head - where they saw some seals - and then followed the coastal path, before coming back cross country i.e. through thick undergrowth on unused paths.

Porth Clais seemed to be the popular spot on Sunday. Russ lead Sean up Inset (S 4a), then Sean lead Porth-Clais Chimney (D) and The Cracker (VD), the latter being a stiff VD and only Sean's third lead which he completed despite falling off onto the gear three times. Zoe and Rob B climbed Red Adair (S 4a) and The Arete (HS 4b) - the latter came complete with a lot of loose rock in top third. As it appeared that this had been caused by recent rock fall, it might be the kind of route best left to the Slovenians.

Still at Porth Clais, Robin Mitton and Jules did Red Adair and Red Wall. Simon and Cheryl did Red wall, Red Wall Right Hand (VS 4c), Porth-Clais Crack (HS 4b) and Ship of Fools (HS 4b). Steve took Katharina here for her second rock experience which started off with an abseil. Steve described Katharina as showing "great focus in overcoming a fear for abseiling." Whereas Katharina said, "I was not too sure about the abseil bit - I still think that was f**king mad." But they managed got some routes done including some tricky thin slab climbs. Steve also squeezed in a couple of routes with Nick - Dreamboat Annie (E1 5a) and Aquaplane (E1 5b) at Porth Ffynnon.

Brad and Kate, Henry and AG, John B and Catherine also climbed at Porth Ffynnon. Quite a few routes were done with Brad lead a sketchy VS along with Grab the Slab (2 star E1). John B did the Crack (VD) and Brown Slab (HS 4b), whilst AG led these two and a VS. The name of the last one is beyond me, but the lines in the guidebook were so badly described it makes you wonder how poor the CC guides would have to be before we stopped buying them. Are they allergic to drawings or what?

Mark W and Dither headed for Craggy-Barcode or possibly Carreg y Barcud, where they abseiled in, a trifle early given the tide-times, and were nearly washed away by a mammoth wave. Pondering which routes might be climbable with wet boots and soggy rock, Mark W set off up The Great Valerio (E1 5a), a rising traverse of the crag. This took a bit of time due to some route finding faffing, and was made a little more interested by the bit of mizzle (strange Welsh air wetness that feels like a cross between mist and drizzle I think) that started to fall two thirds of the way up the route. Dither, straining at the leash, then led Sinecure (E1 5b) in good style, despite the greasy rock in the lower part of the route.

Most of the party made the customary stop at the White Hart on the way back for what everyone seems to think was a good dinner, unfortunately Steve arrived after food was available, dedicated climber that he is. All in all, whilst it might seem mad to drive so far to avoid good weather, as you can see from the meet report, we probably all got a lot more done than if it was 30 degrees and sunny! Very many thanks to Edmund, Kate G and John B who stepped up to the plate in the absence of the meet organiser. As for Rosie's attempt at the organising bit, perhaps the report should say could do better?