The late Bank Holiday meet is always one of the most popular meets in the MMC calendar, and for good reason – it takes place in the beautiful surrounds of Eryri (Snowdonia), everyone gets an extra day of adventurous activity and it is also the training meet where budding climbers gain new trad skills and build on existing ones.

It also helped that on this particular meet the weather was glorious (which is not always the case!).  The midges seem to make their way further south every year, but even those wee nasties did not put a damper on things at the ever-friendly Dolgam campsite in Capel Curig.

Saturday

After a false start at Caseg Fraith, the training group, led by Ben, headed over to Union Rock. Oscar and Chris were assisting, with trainees Cameron, Fergus, Janette, Max, Paul and Jack. The focus of the morning was getting used to half-rope lead belaying, as well as handling gear and scoping out placements. A few laps seconding up whatever routes could be found quickly got everyone into the swing of things. After lunch it was all about anchors, with everyone having a go at building one on pre-placed gear, before belaying their partner up from above. The day was rounded off with some abseil practice, followed by a cooling dip in the lake for some, and a return to the campsite for dinner for others.

Elsewhere, Wendy Alix and Nick set off for a route on Tryfan and the Glyders however, the only place available to park was at the campsite at Gwern Gof. So rather than trudge along the road they headed up Carnedd Llewelyn. It was opposite conditions to the outing in January which required crampons on one section! Dehydration and sunburn were the risks on this meet!

Meanwhile Oli, Damien, David and Steve headed to Tremadog to undertake classics such as Grim Wall Direct and Stromboli amongst other worthwhile climbs.

Finally, Miro and Mo took on Amphitheatre Buttress – a classic multi-pitch mountain route on Craig Yr Ysfa.

Sunday

The training group managed to make it to Caseg Fraith before the car park was full. The day started off by looking at protection: how and where to place nuts, cams and hexes. The scoring system was explained, before the trainees were let loose on the crag with a fistful of gear, watched nervously by the owners of said gear! Some more seconding and belay practice followed, before everyone managed to have a go at mock lead or two in the afternoon. The heat, and the sheer volume of information to absorb, eventually took its toll, and time was called on an excellent weekend’s training. Ben and Chris stuck around for some quick-fire cragging afterwards, knocking off Gweg Jasper, Lech, Canol and Diagonal Cracks before heading back to the campsite.

Moel Siabod provided entertainment for a gang including Wendy, Satish, Nick, Ali, Martin, Katherine and Alix.  While the hoped-for scramble up evaded them, the scramble down was quick entertaining

Mira and Mo took on another classic mountain route – Grooved Arete on Tryfan this time, finishing with the absolute must of standing on Adam & Eve at the top.  Reports are mixed as to whether they also did the jump from one to the other!

Oli and Damien went for something completely different and headed into the belly of the Dinorwig quarry beast that is Twll Mawr, tackling what is apparently the third longest sport route in the uk – The Desolation of Smaug… a 145m route with three 6c pitches!

Monday

Chris, Rick, Nick, Paul and Jack set off for Clogwyn Cyrau, hoping for some shade at least at the base of the crag. This was found, although the intense heat on the rock itself made for not-always-pleasant climbing. Paul and Jack got their first taste of some (admittedly slightly contrived) multi-pitch, expressing surprise at what counted as a ‘comfortable’ belay ledge! It wasn’t too long before everyone was thoroughly cooked, heading back down to Betws and then back home.

Oli and Damien dropped Janette at Pen-y-Pass who took herself for a romp up Snowdon via the impressive Crib Goch approach, and then on down to Llanberis for a well deserved ice cream whilst the other two headed to Holyhead and the Gogarth cliffs to join the queue of climbers for Dream of White Horses.  Despite the crowd and despite the heat, the pair had a great time on what has to be one of the most classic routes  in the whole of the UK.

If only every Bank Holiday weekend could be so good!

by Chris L